Making Dongs and Ready to Make an Etsy Store

I recently got into making my own silicone dongs as a bit of a hobby. I'm planning on having my Etsy site ready by this weekend.

Right now, I'm trying to make a silicone cock ring. In this pic, you can see 2 clay models of the scaly-ish ring I made. I just need to make a mold for the bigger (and better) ring. The one on the right ended up being too small. I'm using sculpey polymer clay for my models. It's kinda hard to work with to get details, so I'd like to sometime try something like NSP clay.

I've also made a few dongs.
I first made a bug-creature dildo, and I then made a knotted dildo.


I also made some eggs with extra silicone I made.

 

Wow! Your knotted toy looks pretty great! Professionalish even!
but I would recommend remodeling your bug mold because the clay working needs more time on it since theres bumpiness, its not very clean with its lines, and it seems like the model might have cracked when baked since it has that broken seem in the side of the black toy. The idea is really cute and I look forward to seeing more of your work!
Also are you using the original sculpey? because super sculpey, while more expensive, is a lot better for finer details and holds up a lot better than the original kind.

Also, make sure when you're selling, since you're starting out, it is super important to be very upfront with your toys imperfections because customers expecting something to one way and receiving another causes a little friction for business. (if you see my other thread you'll understand)

 

As a fellow toy maker (wow there are a lot of us!), If you plan on using sculpy as your medium, after you bake it you can gently sand it using sandpaper. If you do this, I recommend starting at 600grit and finishing with something as high as 2500grit. Other makers i know sometimes use mod podge to cast their models and make them smoother. Good luck!

 

So many of us. Welcome to the club

 

Oh, also another tip for knotted toys, you want to always leave some space underneath so people can tie on it!

 

Plans on making a hollow toy
I'm planning on making a penetrable toy as well as an Ovipositor in the future.
My plan is to:

1. Make a sculpt of the exterior
2. Make a sculpt of the interior
3. Make a negative mold of the Exterior with silicone as usual
4. Make a positive of the interior. I'm thinking for first trying paraffin wax, as it's cheap, and you can remelt if it breaks. Urethane might be a stronger way to due it, but I'd rather try out a $1 melted candle than $30 of urethane from Smooth-On.
5. I need to find a way to align the interior consistently, maybe make in 2 parts with holes between the parts

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If I had a 3D printer, I could probably take a different approach that would skip a few steps and make some steps easier.

Experimenting with different clays
Has anyone tried other types of clay for making your toys? What are your experiences with various types of clays? I've been thinking about using some NSP, and maybe experimenting with porcelain and paper clay. I know you can make paper and porcelain clay at home with everyday materials. [source for DIY porcelain] [source for DIY paper clay]

Yeah, the bug was my first clay model, and I remember that I was getting impatient and I had less tools at the time. I was kind of surprised how well my knotted toy turned out. I'm using a box of Original sculpey. I'll experiment with super sculpey once I've gone through a good amount of clay. I know mine tends to crumble a lot when working with details.

Thanks for the advice on the imperfections! I know my knotted dildos tend to get an air bubble on inside of the suction cup, although it's very clean and I wouldn't know that it was an "imperfection" unless someone told me otherwise. I also just noticed a small airbubble that doesn't touch the surface of the toy. I doubt that would cause any issues, but it's always good idea to be transparent with customers.

Good to know. I've seen a few designs that have a varying from little to a good amount of space after the knot.
Thank you for all of the advice! It's really nice to get some constructive feedback!

Yeah. This place kind of caught me by surprise by how many makers are here. For some background information, I ended up discovering Average/Candiru's vimeo, which I found to be really helpful and educational for getting started. I was kind of curious about the end-to-end manufacturing process to begin with, and those videos + reading other creators' blogs got me really motivated and on my feet. I built my own vacuum chamber, and got started - using Average's guide as a template.

Thanks. I've heard of makers using modpodge, but I didn't knot if that was just for things like repairing cracks.
I'm not sure if everyone does this, but I end up smoothing the model with isopropyl alcohol (70% or 94%+water) before baking it. I know I used modpodge for my first model, but I'm wasn't the biggest fan, as it made the ending model a bit sticky. So, I only used modpodge as a filler for fixing chips and scratches and some rough areas near the veins. It would probably be even better if I had sanded it down!
As far as repairing scratches and chips, I've also heard to combining superglue with babypowder to fix models, and then to sand it off after it hardens. [source]

 

Ovipositor, you can't use that name as its trademarked. Also I'm not sure if they have a copyright on that type of egg idea. I'd look into it before you fall into any legal issues. Just lookin out for you.

You have to make sure the clay you use will react well with the silicone because certain things in other clays stop the silicone from curing.

Yeah same with original sculpey, thats why I use my original for designs and fun and when I decide on something, I've been using super to get into the real details. I haven't actually put out my store or anything yet, I'm doing a ton of experimenting and perfecting because I would hate to put out a sub-par product.

Imperfections are like the seem line on your bug, the not evenly smooth texture on the toys if it's supposed to be, if the toy had a nick, tear, or discoloration, any holes or bubbles in it. Just anything that makes it different from the way it's supposed to be. Like with other etsy stores and even BD they call those toys flops and sell them for cheaper. The bubble below the surface, if its not an issue, it wouldn't count.

Yeah there are toys that don't have space below the knot, but the ones that do are more popular up to you.

Just try to put out the absolute best and safest product that you can!

 

Good luck on the pentrable. Honestly I need help on sleeves. I can't get the firmness down.
I make too hard or too soft

 

I used to work at a plastics factory, and void (airbubbles inside the plasic) could be considered a problem - depending on the customer. That black toy does have a pretty noticeable seam line. All my toys tend to have one if you closely look, but that one is an outlier.

You could be right on the copyright/trademark situation of ovipositor toys, but I can't find anything to back that up. The only trademark I can find on behalf of PH is PH's name & logo. On behalf of ovipositors, it is a real organ, and I cannot find any trademarks from USPTO (but I can find a ton from a big business like BD). Copyright can get into more of a gray area. I know copyright can get kind of crazy (see sergals). I think I would be in the clear, as long as I'm not making clones. I really want to give it a try.
Fun fact: You can find which trademarks are officially dead according to the USPTO
Interesting dead trademarks: "Duke's Butt", "Cum Lube", "Cum Tube"
I legally could name a product that without running into a trademark violation, but that would be silly.

What shore hardnesses have you tried? Have you experimented with silicone thinner?

 

To repair scratches and chips, you can always add more sculpey and rebake since it is a polymer clay. Isopropyl alcohol does work for smoothing out the clay, just don't use too much or you actually can melt the sculpey (which what you are doing anyway). Don't get discouraged and take your time. My first model took me a few weeks to make. Days to sculpt and a few weeks to get it sanded to my liking. And guess what? It still could have been better. I personally don't use mod podge. I hate the way it feels (i have sensory processing disorder). I also believe by adding mod podge, that it sometimes can add more scratch like lines in your finished mold.

Like Bun said, make sure you are upfront with the condition of your toys on Etsy. I have bought many toys on Etsy, and like Bun, there have been some serious issues with some. But others were fantastic. (Waiting on a new one from DamnAverage right now...also a BD Trent) It's always nice to know about even minor imperfections before purchasing.

NSP clay is fine too work with as well. But you'll have to seal it before making a mold from it as it doesn't harden. Also, from experience, you are more likely to break your model.

remember, you don't have to open your store with more than one model. So go slow, come close to perfection, and see what happens. Although i have been making toys for a year now, I still haven't gone out and started an etsy. I might someday, but i sell locally. I am a member of a local BDSM meeting group and they are the best clients and personal think tank. See if you can source your own think tank. (I do not recommend joining a BDSM group just for this. I was a member prior to making toys.)
Can't help you on the penetrables. Never bothered trying to make one. I always wanted a sheath for my SO to wear, but we can never find any that fit. Good luck

 

Welp. I finally got around to make an Etsy store.
I'll make a few more readymades before I start doing custom pours. I feel like I still need to experiment more with colors, and be a bit more organized.

 

Hey, this is just a bit of a progress update:
I've been working on the exterior of a penetrable.
I started out with a cheap coffee cup and aluminium foil as the base. I made sure the plastic wasn't at a low melting point.


My first day was mostly spent on getting the basic forms down. I decided I would give this two tails. I'm intentially making the sculpt a little longer than the final toy so I can have the pegs align.

The next day was mostly spent experimenting and refining those tails

Today, I had more time, and I decided to add some cute little genitals. The red wire is aluminium [floral] wire for helping air escape on the little penis & balls.
For the anus, I experimented with techniques for making good looking skin wrinkles. I think I could have done better, but I'm good with this. I made an indentation with a pen for additional alignment (same indentation will be done on the internal mold.
For some reason, it's practically impossible to smooth out the clay on this body, so I'll do what I can with sandpaper and/or modpodge.
After so much work, I really wanted to just be done with it, so I baked it, and I'm very happy it didn't fall apart. after baking.

I'm off to sand and modpodge this, then work on the internal mold. I may cast the external mold first just so I can be certain on alignment.
I'm thinking of using the base of the internal mold with more floral wire and/or aluminum foil.
Wish me luck!

 

Wow thats crazy! Can't wait to see it in silicone!

 

I haven't really posted updates as I was really focused on this, and busy with family.

I finally got a prototype after a lot of blood, sweat, and tears. There's a few airpockets - mostly caused by me trying to pour custom colors in certain spots (tips of tails, penis, etc.) I probably wouldn't have had this if there was a longer cure time.

I initally used a sample of Dragon Skin FX Pro (yellow-orange & white) and ran out and used a little of my sample of OO-30 (red & white). I did use thinner in both, to increase work time & make it soft (it was getting kinda hot).
I do not recommend FX pro for this. It ends up being firmer than OO-30, making it feel a little too hard - even with 10% thinner. I don't know what OO-50 feels like, so I'm guessing FX Pro is something near OO-40. Maybe the best comparison would be that it's a bit firmer than BD's soft, but definitely medium.

OO-30 (with 10% thinner) feels nice, so I can recommend that. I know a lot of makers of masturbators use OO-20, so I bet it's pretty close to that. I'm curious how OO-10 feels.