Sharp objects tread

Balisongs in any form are illegal to import. You might be able to get away with importing trainers, but you're still risking a fine, arrest and prosecution. Which is why I was bitching about our stupid law makers.

 

ah, well that sucks. the only thing I like about living in Arizona is you can legally carry -ANY- sharp edged weapon on you in public, so anything from a simple pocket knife to walking down the street with a halberd or scottish broadsword is possible. there was even a case a few years ago where a dude on a bus whipped out a katana to break up a fight. how he was able to conceal that on his person, no one knows

 

holy shit that Hanwei lowlander sword at the end! *nergasms EVERYWHERE*

also macho man satire lol

 

@Eloe Elwe Now I'm more than jealous.
It's a crime that your aunt had lost the scabbard, that saber really deserve one. How do you protect it from corrosion?

@scalie All hail the great Skallagrim! I'm amazed how this man manage to wield this "Zweihänder". I tried once and suffered during the following two weeks

 

It's a very dry climate here, so there is little need for anything special. Just needs to be wiped down and oiled, should anyone touch the blade.

 

All I keep is a sharpfinger since I tossed my KA-BAR

 

did the handle wrap on my tomahawk. adds a little bulk to the handle and definitely improves grip over the crappy little ridges they put on it. it's comfortable enough that it wouldn't cause blisters with moderate use, extensive use though, wear gloves. just a good safety practice, especially if you're out camping or hiking. blisters pop and can get infected easily. I'll probably reprofile the spike tomorrow since I should have time. I like this wrapping style since it makes it more comfortable and has better grip for right handed use, and if you need to remove it it comes off really quickly instead of needing to spend 30+ minutes trying to untie a hundred little knots

 

further modifications

reprofiled the spike for better force and penetration power. this side turned out good, the other doesn't look nearly as good. still practicing with the grinder. the edge isn't cutting sharp on the back (which is the point) because it has that nice sharp little acute point on it. I managed to split most of a 2x4 in one swing, and also managed to take a pretty big gouge out of the concrete underneath. before the spike just bounced off if you hit wood across the grain. now to just do the sheath

 

just a little teaser for what I'm currently working on

my first time doing decorative filework. I may still turn this into a vine pattern with thorns. I think it turned out a lot better than I expected but it's still nothing compared to some artisan's work

P.S. I feel like I'm the only person who posts in here anymore... I feel so lonely... lol

 

I wish I could afford some new steel to show off.
But Xmas is coming.....

 

When you think about all the olden day sword fights how easily it would have been to loose a limb or other body parts to those kinds of blades they used. Plus if someone had the strength behind them I bet they could have cut a dude in half. Truely terrifying but strangely awesome at the same time.

 

technically a potential sharp object. I decided to practice my solidworks modeling skills and make a pocket prybar prototype design. forgot to add gimping on the side opposite the strap cutter and a notch in the prying end to make it more effective for nails and small round items. I may try to make a few of these out of some basic carbon steel and heat treat it, depending on how it goes and if anyone is interested in buying a few I may invest in some better materials, possibly even titanium if people are really into it

 

*want!want!want!want!want!*

applegate-fairbairn mini smatchet in damascus and rosewood or mahogany handles
too bad they were a limited edition a few years ago and ridiculously priced

 

As far as I'm concerned the only sharp object worth owning is Thranduil's sword :3

 

gave my brother a budget dual action OTF for christmas, he loves it. he also says it's the sharpest knife he's ever owned, which is kinda sad because it's not that sharp

 

got lucky and happened across one of these while they were still in stock, discontinued knives are hard to find and I've wanted one of these for quite a while

 

I have a few random throwing stars. I got pretty good at it a while ago, but haven't used them in years.

 

time to bring some life back to this thread.

I just finished a little knife making project and I'll likely release several pics at a time I took throughout the process with some info on what's going on in them (there are 34 pics in all) to start with though, handle material, a very important part of making a knife. what do you pick, how do you want it to look? for aesthetics (and because of price and availability) I chose OD green micarta and coyote tan G10 liners. micarta and G10 are both composite materials but micarta (phenolic or garolite by trade) is made from layers of usually canvas, fabric or paper laminated together with phenolic resin. G10 is simply fiberglass laminated together with a colored resin.

 

ADDING SCALES
the first step is to add the handle scales to the blade. first the liner material must be attached to the scales themselves, it is important to rough up the surfaces to be bonded so the epoxy has something to stick to. once they have fully cured you need to drill your holes so that each scale is even with the other. the easiest way I found is to drill all the holes in one side and then clamp the other scale to it and drill through the existing holes. once you have the holes you can use your pinstock to hold them together and shape the forward edge of the scales because it is nearly impossible once glued to the blade. after getting them as even as you can it's time to glue them to your handle. make sure to rough up the handle, the cheap diamond grit rotary burrs from harbor freight seem to work surprisingly well on hardened tempered steel. I'll need to try engraving with them sometime. next drill a series of shallow divots into the scales to give somewhere for the epoxy to get a better grip and rough up the rest with coarse sand paper.

 

GLUING CONT. SHAPING AND FINISHING
(can only upload 10 pics at a time)
after preparing the scales, glue them to the handle of the blade blank. make sure to mix enough epoxy. you don't want to run out and leave pockets or try to mix two seperate batches and have them cure differently. make sure to get some epoxy in the pin holes so the rods (roughed up with sandpaper) will stay in place. make sure to apply enough clamping pressure to squeeze out the excess epoxy. clean up the extra epoxy around the front of the scales now or you won't be able to later, let the excess that squeezes out along the sides stay where it is so a pocket or gap isn't created along the edge of the handle, if it happens it will show up later. once fully cured you can grind your pins flat with the surface and begin shaping, first just block out the shape and then you can start contouring. there are several vidoes that explain how to do the contouring on youtube, I wouldn't be able to do it justice with pictures but you can see the finished result. this will create a TON of very fine dust, make sure you wear a respirator and have some sort of dust extration. my shopvac started to overheat halfway through so I had to stop using it. you can see how much is caked onto the grinder at that's a tiny fraction of it all. once done with contouring the knife is technically completed, but you can do more to finish the appearance. after hand rubbing the spine to get the grind lines all going the same direction I chose to force a patina on the blade using apple cider vinegar to help prevent rust (high carbon 1075 WILL rust if left untreated) this will also give the knife a different look. it's easy to do, just soak a paper towel in it, wrap it around the blade and let it sit for 45 minutes (this will only work on carbon steels, for stainless you need to use an acid like ferric chloride or a bluing treatment for stainless) there are many different things you can use to form patinas, each one gives a different look. oiling the handle will darken the color of the materail and improve it's performance by preventing the micarta from absorbing dirt and grime.